Den här beskrivningen hittade jag på nätet ang. LC4 ventiljustering (kommer inte ihåg vart):
First thing that you have to do is make sure the engine is stone cold
prior to doing anything (Adjust the valves cold).
1 Remove fuel line and loosen two front tank mount bolts and the one
at the rear of the tank.
2 carefully take off the fan assembly on the left side of the engine
(Be careful not to bend/damage the radiator fins)
3 ensure that the area directly above the valve covers is clean of
debris,dirt,etc (Don't want any stuff falling in there)
4 use a allen wrench to take off the two cover bolts on each valve
cover.(DO PRIOR TO SPARK PLUG TO MINIMIZE DROPPING BOLT IN CYLINDER)
5 take out the spark plug
6 somehow elevate the back wheel so that you can rotate the wheel.
7 with the ignition "OFF" crank the engine using the kick starter via
hand pressure with your finger covering the spark plug hole.
8 crank the engine until you feel the pressure from the compression
stroke push your finger off of the hole(You must adjust the valves on
the COMPRESSION STROKE).
Next slowly crank the engine moving the rear wheel USUALLY FORWARD(IN
2nd or 3rd GEAR)to alighning the timing mark on the flywheel with the
"DOT" on the inspection window.
Do this a couple of times looking at the rocker arms to see how they
move and ensure that they are in the released position. (NO VALVE
SPRINGS SHOULD BE COMPRESSED)
REMEMBER: FOUR STROKE = INTAKE,COMPRESSION,POWER,EXHAUST
9 Get your bent feeler gauge (45 degree v.s. straight feeler gauge)
and my sudgestion would be to set them all (INTAKE AN EXHAUST) at
.006 inches (.152 millimeters)to ensure the warranty doesn't go south
with the engine.
I personally adjust my intakes at .006in. and my exhaust at
.007in.(.178 milimeters) due to automotive mechanical info that I
have heard relating to the exhaust valves tending to getting hotter
than the intake, thereby exspanding more than the intake. Due to the
minute difference in valve clearance, it in my opinion is quite
negligible for loss of power due to a little time delay and added
safety. That same amount HOWEVER, too tight could make you burn a
valve due to not providing enough valve to valve seat clearance
during expansion.This does not allow your valve to release the built
up heat through the valve seat.
Of course the "BEST" thing to do is go to the book and do them both
at .006in. (FOR $9000.00 KTM SHOULD KNOW SOMETHING)
To ensure that you have the valves adjusted just right, try to slide
a feeler gauge the next size larger into the gap (BETWEEN THE TOP OF
THE VALVE STEM AND THE ROCKER ARM BASE). If it goes in then your
adjustment is too Big/Large. Re-Do it! "ONE WORD OF CAUTION" DO NOT
TIGHTEN THE STUFFIN OUT OF THE LOCKING NUT OR YOU WILL STRIP THE
NUT/ADJUSTER AND HAVE TO TAKE THE WHOLE THING APART.
Once you have followed these steps take your time and put everything
back together being careful not to bend the radiator fins.
This whole process does not really take that long, But hey if you
want to do it right don't plan anything that day, and take care of
the task at hand.